I met Chief White Eagle in December 2003 while visiting Hot Springs, Arkansas, apparently to buy some furniture for a small spa retreat I owned at that time in Missouri. I had been in the Ozark bioregion that spans both states for eighteen months at that time. The ancient landscape enchanted me; yet the violence of the pioneering days and the Civil War was evident everywhere. A crystal clear tributary of the North Fork of the White River, Spring Creek, ran through the land I settled on and continued on down into Arkansas. The region boasts one of the largest concentrations of springs in the world. There are no hot springs in Missouri but there is one in Arkansas, a sacred site to indigenous peoples.
'In a place like no other on earth was a Valley of the Rainbows. The healing waters, crystal stones, abundance of food and herbal medicines were available to all that needed them. The elders foretold of a time when these springs would be controlled so they could not flow, their vapors could no longer be seen. War, greed and power would replace peace. A white eagle would be sent to build a nest at the foot of the mountain giving birth to a new time when the waters would flow freely.'
This legend about Hot Springs was being brought to life by Chief White Eagle of the Neches Cherokee Nation. He had made it his mission to establish a welcoming center for all peoples who sought peace and harmony there. After its heyday as a spa resort in the late 1800s, the historic town faded; its waters were captured below its streets and its springs were capped. The water resources became the property of the Federal Government, their use constricted by the usual bureaucracy. Although you could drink the waters from special fountains around the town and bathe in them in some of the grander hotels or at a rather rundown health spa (a new one has been established since), their healing power was no longer free flowing.
The Chief's mission was to develop his Cherokee Longhouse as a place where all people, thoughts, ideas, and cultures could come together. No matter what our beliefs and where we come from, he said, we are all on this earth to love and respect each other and our natural resources. His center was in a prime location across from the Convention Center, one block from main street. This had led to some friction with city developers who'd rather see a Starbucks on the site. The center aimed to offer native ceremonies and healing practices, along with classes and demonstrations in silver smithing, flintknapping, and use of herbs.
The Longhouse building was in process of renovation and it looked like they had run out of funds. The dusty window display had attracted me but it was closed on a previous visit. This time, the wizened old cowboy looking after the shop did his best to make us feel welcome and we hung around until the Chief appeared. Despite obvious tiredness and many hidden problems, he invited us to share a friendship pipe with him and to receive a special crystal healing. He said they had encountered some difficulties regards support from the community. Then he showed me a small grotto of natural rock and crystal in the basement of the tribal center where he was beginning to dig through to the river under main street, to free the waters.
I didn't like to ask him what he would do if and when the waters rushed through. Progress seemed slow and the goal unlikely but I appreciated his passionate mission. While standing in the spiraling stairway that led down into the ground, I experienced a moment of deja vu with Chief White Eagle. My ancestors for sure came from Scotland he said and I agreed, though I do not know this to be so. White Eagle said he wanted to bestow me with the name Kelly Rose. If he was a snake-oil salesman, he was a likable one. We contributed to his rent due that day and enjoyed a hot tub soak in eucalyptus by way of return. I regret that I've not yet gone back to see how he got on.
Soon after, while researching this encounter, I came across the history of Chief Bowles and began to follow some intriguing connections. My English mother's maiden name is Bowles. The Cherokee Chief was born in North Carolina in the year 1756, the son of a Scotch-Irish trader by the name of Bowles and a Cherokee mother. He was described as a magnificent man with English features; light eyes, red hair, and somewhat freckled. The Bowl was thirty-two, when he became Chief of the town Running Water in Chattanooga, Tennessee. He and his people later moved to the valley of St Francis in southeast Missouri. In 1811 there was a violent earthquake which they took as a sign that Great Spirit was warning them to move to Arkansas.
Around 1820, Chief Bowles moved to Texas. The twelve associated native tribes there had been promised a million acres by then Texas President Sam Houston. Succeeding President Lamar wished to reclaim this land and a battle ensued between the Texas Cavalry and Cherokees. On July 16 1839 Chief Bowles signaled retreat. Wounded in the leg, he started to walk from the battle field, but was shot in the back. The old chief sat facing the company of militia and the captain placed a pistol to his head and killed him. The Chief's body was left where it lay, unburied. Chief Sequoyah led the survivors to San Fernando, Mexico where they remained for a century.
In 1967, hurricane Beulah changed the the course of the Rio Grande river, creating a 200 acre island in the middle of the river. The United States said the land belonged to Mexico and the Mexican government sold it to Chief Little Bird on Shoulder, a direct descendant of Chief Bowles. Little Bird on Shoulder established the Cherokee Nation-Neches Tribal Headquarters there on Los Indios island. Chief White Eagle was designated to open tribal centers in the United States beginning in Hot Springs, Arkansas. For seven years before I met him, the Chief had been attempting to establish that building in downtown Hot Springs National Park to be used as a cultural and trade center.
My own journeys through Texas, Missouri (where I had chosen to settle), and Arkansas (which had magic for me), began to take on a strange significance. I wondered if the lingering connection I had had with Scotland since I was a student at Edinburgh and the strange rootlessness I felt until I arrived in Spring Creek valley deep in the Ozarks, were expressive of my ancestral legacy. Perhaps my ex-husband's Choctaw heritage (this tribe was among the associated twelve in Texas) was linked into this too; and we were playing out those histories of peace and war. A few years later, I dreamt about the death of a red-bearded man who has associations for me with Chief Bowles.
'Chief White Eagle said that Hot Springs is one of the most sacred places on earth. Indigenous people referred to it as 'The Valley of the Vapors.' There are 52 hot springs with 52 different temperatures with 52 different algae creating 52 colors of the water which correspond to the 52 systems in the body. Each spring heals a different system. He said before the white man that Native people came from as far away as the Mayans all the way to Alaska to bath in the springs. There was one agreement among all the tribes: no weapons, tribal animosity or bad vibes allowed in the Valley of the Vapors...' [from the travel diary of a peace group from Jamaica that happened upon the Longhouse the same year that I did].
I do not know where this story will take me next, since like the tribes I feel I have lost my roots once more. I do feel that I have been called to the watery but hidden place that is the Ozarks to explore the magic and mystery of water as healer and creative force, and to do what I can to inspire recognition of its value. The Ozark bioregion formed 3 billion years ago when much of the land was covered by water - it has an old wisdom about it. Said Chief White Eagle: 'We are all gifts and we have been gifted to each other. It is not so much what we are called, but that we answer our call.' Winter is the time of the White Eagles on the rivers here and I am looking for them.
For another Arkansas story by Sara, see Beauty and Harmony on Vision Spa Retreat



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